Now that we have covered the basic care requirements, we can focus on how to breed Eurydactylodesspp. First things first, let's figure out what sex your geckos are. Mature males are very easy to distinguish from mature females as they have a rather obvious hemipenal bulge and prominent waxy and often yellow femoral pores. Females lack both of these features as demonstrated in our handy dandy pictures below.
Sexing juvenile Eurydactylodesspp. is a bit more tricky, as they do not develop the bulge until maturity. Males can develop pores as early as 2-3 months old and experienced keepers can usually sex them at this point using a loupe. But things are not always they seem because females can display pseudopores which look very similar to male pores. A trained eye can tell the difference but unfortunately, it is something that comes with experience. In general, female pseudopores do not have waxy-yellow extrusions coming out of the pores. Additionally, the pores are typically centered in a small diamond pattern opposed to all the way across the legs.
Successful reproduction is heavily dependent on what you feed your breeders. As with most species the more variety you can include in their diet, the better. While Eurydactylodesspp. can survive and reproduce on prepared gecko diets alone, they will thrive and be more prolific when offered live gut loaded insects once or twice a week. We offer smaller sized crickets as well as dubia roach nymphs. We dust the insects with calcium with D3 powder every time we feed insects, and we mix in a Herptivite multivitamin with the calcium one feeding per month. In addition to that, we offer prepared gecko diet 2 or 3 times per week.
Seasonal cues play a role in the breeding cycle of these geckos. Shorter days and cooler temps will "turn off" breeding and egg laying. Our gecko room falls to around 68-72 F during the winter months which effectively tells them it's time for a break. Two to three months of cooler days and less than 12 hours of light is recommended as a rest period after which you can resume normal temperature and light cycles to stimulate breeding behavior.
These guys breed readily when housed as pairs or trios. Having more than 2 females with the male seems to result in less breeding and egg laying. Only a single male should ever be housed with the female(s) to prevent fighting. The pairs or trios can be housed together year round.
Having healthy, well fed, and properly housed pairs or trios will result in breeding and egg laying.
Egg Laying Sites
Your egg laying container should be at least 4 inches deep as Eurydactylodes like to bury their eggs fairly deep. We find the Gladware type containers work nicely. Fill the container with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and vermiculite and make sure it always stays damp but not soaking wet. Check for eggs regularly, you can often see a dig spot. Both species are notorious for laying eggs outside of the lay box, but they typically are bad eggs.
Eggs and Incubation Once the eggs are laid they should be removed and placed into an egg container with moist but not soaking wet incubation medium. We like Pangea Hatch or Vermiculite for the medium. The lid should be opened every 4-7 days to check on the eggs and to refresh the air inside. We leave the container in our reptile room which stays 73-75 degrees and eggs hatch in 70-90 days.
Hatchling Care Hatchlings are cared for exactly the same way as adults with a little more care placed on making sure they get misted regularly and heavily enough to allow ample time to drink the droplets of water. Dehydration is the most common cause of failure to thrive with these two species. That being said, keeping them too wet and without enough ventilation is equally detrimental as it can cause respiratory infections. Good airflow is essential and will allow the enclosure to dry up between mistings.