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  • Third time's the charm...

    Hey guys (and girls), my name's Josh.

    This is actually my third time trying to write this.. First time my phone died.. Second time my laptop died.. And now I'm back on my phone. My luck, I suppose

    I live in Northern Florida, and currently attend a local high school. I work as a waiter, and love surfing, muay thia, most team sports, etc.

    I primarily keep Green Tree Pythons (2.4.1) and Amazon Tree Boas (2.2), although I also have a normal ball python (1.0), and a few crested geckos (1.2).

    I joined this forum roughly two years ago when I was planning on receiving a pair of Leachianus Geckos in a trade, however I decided not to go through with it, with the intentions of keeping the GTP pair and breeding them (She laid 13 eggs for me last year, 8 of which hatched ). The urge to get some leachianus geckos never left me, however, and thus I'm back with the intentions of acquiring some in the near future.

    Thanks for having me. I'm excited to be here, and learn as much as I possibly can.

    Excuse the mirror selfie.. Lol the downfall of not having a frontal cam
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Welcome! Again!?!?!?

    I just acquired my first GTP, about 2 months ago. It is still in the yellow with the red and white pattern stage. Also, still very nippy and will often strike at me when I clean the cage, etc. I'm hoping it will calm as it matures so that I can actually handle it without fear of getting bitten by those massive adult fangs.

    Good luck on finding some leachianus geckos. I have 3 and they are really fun to keep.

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    • #3
      How cool! All of mine are usually pretty calm and passive, although a few become cage aggressive in the evening time.

      Give it time, and be patient. Neonates are typically pretty nippy (especially if they are not CBB). I prefer them being nippy, however. They are easier to get established than shy neos

      What type of setup do you keep it in? One symptom of a stressed out chondro is a pissy attitude. I keep all of mine is some sort of tub with good success.

      This may surprise you, but GTP's don't really have large denticles - definitely impressive denticles, but nothing compared to the 'fangs' of ETB's. I have only gotten bit by a few of my adults (My fault every time), but to be honest, it hurt less than getting stuck by thorns from rose bushes. Maybe I was just lucky

      Thanks. There's just something about a 'colossal' 200-350 gram gecko that intrigues me. They've been on my wish list for quite some time.. Now it's time to make it happen. Are yours handlable? I've heard that some of them (Especially GT's) hate handling.. I'm more of an observing, but that's one question that I'd like to learn the validity of.

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      • #4
        My baby GTP is in an Exo-Terra 12x12x18 and it seems to have plenty of space. He/she feeds on a hopper f/t mouse every 8-9 days and takes the prey within 30 seconds of me holding in front of GTP's nose. I don't think this one is at all stressed. It's been a bit more calm over the past couple weeks as it is not so hissy and snappy when I go in to clean poop or freshen the water in the dish. Lately, it just watches me as I move my hands about inside the cage. I'm not ready to call it docile, yet. But, I'm hoping to be able to say that soon enough.

        All of my leachies are still babies. The largest currently weighs in at only 40 grams. But, I've noticed them growing much faster with the warmer weather. They all have nice personalities. I hope that remains as they reach adult sizes of 200+ grams as I don't ever want to be bitten by an adult leachie.

        Here is Khaleesi, taken today. She is 28 grams.
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        • #5
          Too much space can actually be a draw back for a tiny neo, but if it feels comfortable enough to eat in it, without hesitation, it sounds like you have things pretty well squared away. Although I'm curious, are you able to keep temps steady? I have tried Exo Terras in the past and could never achieve steady, good temps. It fluctuated terribly for me, and ended up being too either hot, or too cold. Glass is a terrible insultor, so that didn't surprise me. Keeping my humidity cycles in check wasn't easy either, even after I covered much of the top. If you're achieving steady temps, and yours is holding humity, my hats off to you, because I have yet to meet a single person that has has much success with glass cages/terrriums.

          Give it a bit of time to mellow out. From my experience, and from what I have learned from different breeders is once they hit the 12-18 month mark, they start to calm down a bit - even if there is no handling regiment in place. Do you know what locality yours is? Biaks/Biak OCs, Yapens, etc tend to be a bit more flighty and unpredictable than the other localities, although there is no reason why they cannot become just as handleable as some of the southern Island and mainland localities (I have a very handleable Aru/Biak female, for example).

          If you haven't already, you should consider joining the Morelia Viridis Forum. It is filled with very knowledge keepers and breeders.. Gary S, Greg Stephens, Christian Stewart, Buddy B, Chuck V, etc.

          That's interesting to hear yours consume more during the warmer months, I wonder if there is a correlation?

          She's a pretty girl for sure! I like her eyes and light patterning.

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          • #6
            The temps in my GTP cage are pretty good. I try to keep no higher than low 90s at the hottest to low 80s. Humidity goes from 60% up to 95%, right after misting. But, it is summer and I expect I will have trouble during the colder months keeping in those ranges as the air is much cooler and extremely dry.

            I'm not sure of the locale of my GTP. I got this one from Petco (I know... ). But, it had been there for months and I got it for $250, which I thought to be a good deal based upon what I had seen for pricing.

            Here's a pic from tonight:
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            I will check out the Morelia Viridis Forum. Thanks for the tip.

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            • #7
              I think a lot of people overestimate the conditions in which GTP's live in, in the wild. Low 90's, is way, way too hot. Especially for a neonate which can overheat much quicker than a larger animal.

              There is no locality that does not dip down to the low-to-mid 70's (Most face much cooler temps). I was actually looking at the 10 day forecast for Wamena earlier today, and it's dipping down to the low-to-mid 50's everyday, with a high of 81-85.

              I've only been keeping chondros since I was 13 (I'll be 17 in September), and by all means, I am far from an expert. However I do have some personal experience with this and don't want you to kill your first chondro like I did.

              If you continue keeping it at those temps, you'll slowly kill it. Misting multiple times a day will speed up its death at those temps. I'll advise you to take some advice that I was given from Rico Walder after my first snake died. I don't have the email on hand since this was over three years ago, but I have been following it since with no complications.

              It's highly recommended to provide a hotspot of 82-84 during the daytime, and allow it to dip down to the mid-to-high 70's during the evening/night. If you give them a hot spot of over 84-85, your snake will need a colder 'cool down' period.

              This confused me at first, because I assumed GTP's were a tropical species that needed a very hot, wet environment (Every 'care sheet' recommended high 80's), but they do not need it very hot/humid. I usually mist mine once a day in the evening (excluding neonates - they receive a heavy misting in the evening, and a light misting in the morning), and give them a nice, 10-12 hour 'dry spell', while keeping temps in the 82-84 range.

              I know you want to look at it, but tubs are hands down the best way to keep neonates. They are not as pleasant to the eyes of course, but they are far superior at maintaining stable temps, high humidity, as well as limit distractions.

              Unless you go out to the locations yourself, locate GTP's, and bring them back, there's really no way to tell what locality they are. Most brokers and importers label them whatever they want (whatever sells). $250 isn't bad, but there are plenty of people like me who sell well established USCBB neonates for similar prices (E.g. I sold my pure Sorongs for 300 + shipping). You also receive full after sale support, all shedding/defecating/urinating/feeding/etc records, pedigree, etc. In my opinion, it's always worth the extra $50-$150 to buy from a reputable breeder unless of course you're trying to outcross your animals or bring in new blood. However the GTP community has grown to the point where there is so much diversity, there really is not much need to purchase imported specimens to diversify your lines. But then again, i'm biased xD But either way, that's a nice looking yellow baby.

              One question I wanted to ask since I'm about 100% positive it's an import is; have you sent a fecal sample to a lab yet? If it were me, I'd probably get a fecal test done ASAP. I'm not sure how many animals you have, or if the GTP is still in quarantine, but I would definitely get it tested before you put it in the same room as your other animals.

              No problem. There's also a sub-forum dedicated to husbandry that's been very helpful for me. I have most of it printed out and laminated for reference xD

              Sorry for the ranting, by the way. I'm just in the mood to type.

              Here's my Merauke female. Yes, she's a little fat, but I also just got her two months ago. Her dietary habits are being restricted by providing much smaller meals than she is used to, on a more frequent basis. Hopefully she'll be ready to breed in the fall of 2016.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Thanks again for the tips.

                I have since brought down the temps and only misting, twice a day. I've also looked over some of the husbandry pages on MVF.

                I'm sure my little GTP will benefit from all I have learned.

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                • #9
                  Welcome back! Your Merauke is gorgeous! And so lucky to benefit from the wisdom of Rico Wilder! I never had the opportunity to meet or talk to him myself, but my friends over at iHerp speak very highly of him.
                  1.0.0 R. auriculatus - Quinn
                  1.0.0 C. ciliatus - Good Hank
                  1.0.0 Mutt - Waldo
                  1.2.0 Cats - Oliver, Dharia and Chloe
                  iherp.com/sarahberry

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                  • #10
                    odduc748 - No problem man, I hope it helps. Although it's primarily regurgitated information lol.

                    sarahberry: Although I primarily talked to him via phone/email on more than a few occasions, I did have the opportunity to meet him in person at the 2012 (may have been 2013) Daytona expo, however I did not want to waste his time since he was super busy, and I wasn't in a position to buy anything. At least I was able to participate in the Rico auctions, win a piece of his legacy, as well as support his wife, Darlene.

                    He was reptile genius and one of the most knowledgeable guys I've spoken to. He will be missed.

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