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  • Bearded dragon help[B][/B]

    Hi guys i recently got a baby bearded dragon at the richmind reptile expo about 2 weeks ago, she been doing well so far eating crickets and veggies. i noticed as of the last 2 days shes been kinda keeping her head low to the ground but when i pick her up she acts normal and is fine. I was wondering if this is a typical stage beardies go through or is something wrong? The breeder i got her from said a 75 watt bulb is fine in a 10 gallon in her basking spot and when she gets to a 20 gal upgrade to a 100 watt bulb. right now on her basking side its about 88 farenhiet with a 75 watt bulb. i know it should be hotter but the breeder said 75 watts... could this be the reason for her behavior? If so any suggestions on what i should do would be great. (I wanted a smaller sized dragon when i bought her cause i didnt want her to get so big i bought the runt. She also has a 2month health garuntee.) < just a side note
    Crested Geckos 1.1.2.2
    0.1 hamster
    1.2 pekingnese,bulldog, and Doberman Pinscher
    0.1 Green checked conure 2.0 cats 0.1 Tangerine x blood bearded dragon 1.0 holland lop bunny

  • #2
    I would definitely get the basking spot up 20 degrees. Using a ten gallon tank I doubt your getting proper temperature gradients. By going with the 20 gal you would probably be able to achieve temperature gradients which are very important.

    If you aren't using a light source that provides UVB you need to get one pronto. I would suggest spending some time at beardeddragon.org's forum which has a lot of good bearded dragon info. And stop listening to everything one breeder tells you, especially if you know it's not good info.
    -Charles Mullen
    I'm looking for really nice chahoua.

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    • #3
      yes also what kind of veggies?
      Sarah & Jake
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      • #4
        Originally posted by Lunar Gecko View Post
        yes also what kind of veggies?
        raddish red leaf lettuce other dark greens and occasional strawberry slice
        Crested Geckos 1.1.2.2
        0.1 hamster
        1.2 pekingnese,bulldog, and Doberman Pinscher
        0.1 Green checked conure 2.0 cats 0.1 Tangerine x blood bearded dragon 1.0 holland lop bunny

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        • #5
          Now my first question is what kind of thermometer are you using? Stick on and dials can read incorrectly anywhere from 7-21 degrees, so be sure you are using a digital thermometer to read the temps with. You do want to achieve a basking area of around 100-110, 105 is what most people aim for. And as Sushi said, a 10 gallon you can not get the proper temps, so lets say you do have a basking area of 100 degrees, the other side of the tank is more then likely 90-95 degrees. You really need a good gradient drop of down to around 75-80 degrees for the cool side otherwise your beardie can get heat exhaustion since it can not cool itself down. So I would upgrade ASAP to a bigger tank, if you wait any longer your going to have big issues.

          Baby beardies dehydrates easily, they dont eat alot of greens therefore they dont take in alot of water. Be sure to give your a beardie a bath every other day to insure it is staying hydrated.

          As for greens, young beardies do not eat alot, but you still need to offer them. Red leaf lettuce is a lettuce and not a green and is rather un-nutritional. Yo wat to offer 3 types of greens daily, the best to offer are turnip, collard, dandelion, and mustarg greens. If you cant find 3 of those 4 greens you can sub in with endive, escrole or aruguola. Good veggies to offer are well grated squashes like acorn or butter nut, sweet potatoes/yams. I would shy away from fruit, fruit should be nor emore then 10% of the weekly veggie intake, and at this age the diatary intake is about 75% insects and 25% veggies, so just stick with the veggies right now and wait until your beardie is older to offer any fruit.

          How many crickets are you offering a day and how large are they? Do you have any cats or dogs in the house? What substrate do you have it on? Roughly how old is it? Do you have a UV light? If you do what brand? How close can it get to the UV light?

          I know alot of questions, but they are need to know questions.
          lets just say I have a lot of stuff
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          • #6
            besides the point wedgie made, heres a more detailed list of foods http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtrem...Nutrition.html

            ive used ten gallons before and was perfectly capable of reaching proper temp gradients. i use flood/spot bulbs instead of regular bulbs to give a more focused area of heat and raise the basking spot off the ground so it takes less wattage to get the basking spot up to code and doesnt fill the tank with excess heat. i had no problems at all having a range from 78-85 with a 110 basking spot, so yes, it can be done. room temp plays a big role in achieving proper temps, just cuz the breeder says a certain bulb should work, doesnt mean that it will, its a good starting point tho. play around with different watts until you reach appropriate temps. and besides using a digi thermometer with a probe, i use a temp gun as well.

            and as already stated, uvb is important so make sure you have a good brand and she can within an appropriate distance from it.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by thongwedgie View Post
              Now my first question is what kind of thermometer are you using? Stick on and dials can read incorrectly anywhere from 7-21 degrees, so be sure you are using a digital thermometer to read the temps with. You do want to achieve a basking area of around 100-110, 105 is what most people aim for. And as Sushi said, a 10 gallon you can not get the proper temps, so lets say you do have a basking area of 100 degrees, the other side of the tank is more then likely 90-95 degrees. You really need a good gradient drop of down to around 75-80 degrees for the cool side otherwise your beardie can get heat exhaustion since it can not cool itself down. So I would upgrade ASAP to a bigger tank, if you wait any longer your going to have big issues.

              Baby beardies dehydrates easily, they dont eat alot of greens therefore they dont take in alot of water. Be sure to give your a beardie a bath every other day to insure it is staying hydrated.

              As for greens, young beardies do not eat alot, but you still need to offer them. Red leaf lettuce is a lettuce and not a green and is rather un-nutritional. Yo wat to offer 3 types of greens daily, the best to offer are turnip, collard, dandelion, and mustarg greens. If you cant find 3 of those 4 greens you can sub in with endive, escrole or aruguola. Good veggies to offer are well grated squashes like acorn or butter nut, sweet potatoes/yams. I would shy away from fruit, fruit should be nor emore then 10% of the weekly veggie intake, and at this age the diatary intake is about 75% insects and 25% veggies, so just stick with the veggies right now and wait until your beardie is older to offer any fruit.

              How many crickets are you offering a day and how large are they? Do you have any cats or dogs in the house? What substrate do you have it on? Roughly how old is it? Do you have a UV light? If you do what brand? How close can it get to the UV light?

              I know alot of questions, but they are need to know questions.
              ok when i give them a bath can i fill luke warm water in the bath tub? i have cats and dogs but they dont bother her as far as i can tell... i feed her crickets everyother day and only give her what she wants to eat then take them out of the cage.. they are about the size inbetween her eyes. she is on paper towel substrate. and as for age i have no idea maybe between 1-2 months. i have a 75 watt UV bulb as for brand i know its the one where the box has a picture of an iguana on it. she can get about 8 inches away from the bulb.. and for uvb i have a reptisun 10 watt
              Crested Geckos 1.1.2.2
              0.1 hamster
              1.2 pekingnese,bulldog, and Doberman Pinscher
              0.1 Green checked conure 2.0 cats 0.1 Tangerine x blood bearded dragon 1.0 holland lop bunny

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              • #8
                The bathtub might be a bit to big for your beardie, I would use either the kitchen sink with a rag shoved down by the stopper (do that it isnt deep water there), a kitty litter pan, a kritter keeper or a small storage container. You dont want it to be deep, dont go higher then their elbows. But yes luke warm water because if you try to wake it warm, odds are high the water is going to be to warm.

                I would also try blocking off the sides of the tank with news paper. What this will do is cut back on the stress from being in a new home. Although your other pets are not bothering it, it can lead to stress. Over time you can slowly remove the covering away.

                You do need to feed these guys daily, most people dont realize because 1 they dont ask how much, and two they dont do that amount of research, which I am not calling you a bad beardie parent, I did the same thing with my first beardie almost 12 years ago. These guys eat 50+ small crickets a day, no larger then the distance inbetween their eyes. It is done over the course of 2-3 feedings a day. This is why you hear people saying beardies eat you out of house and home. Over time you cut back the amount but for the first 4 months they are eating 50+ a day.At 5 months it cuts back to about 36-40 a day, and after 7 months cut back again, so on and so forth.

                The UV bulb you have is good BUT your beardie needs to get within 10-12" of the actual UV. If within the 10-12" of the 10.0 your beardie can actually get sun burns and eye issues from over exposure.

                Was your thermometer digital or stickon/dial?
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                • #9
                  The behavior of your dragon just may be relocation stress.

                  Now for your setup. A 10 gallon will not last long. An upgrade now will save you in the long run, rather than upgrading slowly. The minimum cage size for a beardie is a 40 gallon breeder. 36" long, 18" deep. Babies bask in a temperature at around 105 degrees farhenheit.

                  No matter what the breeder told you, you need the right temp. The wattage of a light depends on the temperature outside and in your home. It may have been that a 75 watt worked for the breeder. You must play around with different wattages to get the appropriate temps. Now, what do you read your temps with? A stick on thermometer can be off by 20 degrees. A digital thermometer with a probe works well, and they're inexpensive, but a temp gun is even better.

                  How many crickets does your dragon eat a day? Babies should be fed 2-3 times a day, as much as they can eat in a 15 minute interval. And they can eat up to 70 crickets a day.

                  Don't worry, I've been in your position before, when I first got my beardies. I now have 3 and have learned alot about them. Hope this helped!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by thongwedgie View Post
                    If within the 10-12" of the 10.0 your beardie can actually get sun burns and eye issues from over exposure.
                    this is not true with that particular bulb. with the reptisun 10 (especially through a screen (if there is one)) a good distance is 6-8 inches. now, the reptiglo bulb, for example, will cause problems if any closer than 10-12 and not coupled with a bright basking light.

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                    • #11
                      Actually it is true including with a screen. I have seen many bearded dragons come through our vets office with eye issues due to the fact when using the 10.0 they are giving the chance to get within 8-10" of this particular light bulb. The inches have nothing to do with the basking bulb, but only with the UVB bulbs, this is why these companies really need to adopt the procedure that the mercury vapor mist bulbs do by putting the recomended distances on the boxes.
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                      • #12
                        Hey,
                        Ive been breeding dragons for quite some time now,I use 10 gal. tanks as nursery tanks for my little ones,last week I hatched out 16 babies,,i use 75 watt basking bulbs and use clean driftwood, so the little ones can climb under the bulb,this way if they get to warm they can always drop down.Babies do enjoy their basking/nap time during the day.I start my hatchling out on fresh cut veggies right out of the egg,I'll even hold back crickets,so they have no choice but to finish up their veggies,by the time their one month old,they finish a bowl everyday,Iam also very careful on how much Calcium dust they get,which is very little, I go by diet,not only do they get Collard/Mustard greens ,also Endvine,Escarole,Dandelion greens and flowers, large amounts of Butternut and Spaghetti Squash (very high in calcium) everyday, along with crickets.My hatchling grow very fast anywhere from 1/2 to 3/4 in. per week.


                        within 30 minutes,these veggies will be gone.


                        these hatchlings are approx 4 in. below the hooded lamp


                        this 6 mo. male sold at the Mar.'10 show,he was 14 1/2 long,fed 10 crickets and a large bowl of fresh cut Veggies daily.

                        I bring a huge bowl of veggies with me to every show and feed them right in front of our customers and will let older children hold the hatchling and feed the veggies by hand, by the time their 1 yr old 80%+ diet will be fresh cut veggies.

                        Twice a week their placed in the sink,water temps are around 85 deg. and the water is never deep enough where they floating,I'll even throw a few crickets in the water,is funny watching them plow thru the water to grab them .


                        Joe M.
                        Last edited by dragonslare; 04-09-2010, 11:35 AM.
                        www.dragonslare.com
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                        • #13
                          no, its not. take a reptisun 10, reptiglo 10 and a desert zilla bulb and measure the uv output. theyre not the same. the reptiglos will, and do, cause damage within a close range and that has been proven. the reptisun 10, which is the only bulb im referring to, is perfectly safe at 8 inches.

                          and im not saying inches have anything to do with basking bulbs, but aside from heat, the other purpose of the basking light is to protect the eyes from the uvb, which is why soft white bulbs are never recommended since theyre not as bright.


                          *@thong. forgot to quote

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by thongwedgie View Post
                            The bathtub might be a bit to big for your beardie, I would use either the kitchen sink with a rag shoved down by the stopper (do that it isnt deep water there), a kitty litter pan, a kritter keeper or a small storage container. You dont want it to be deep, dont go higher then their elbows. But yes luke warm water because if you try to wake it warm, odds are high the water is going to be to warm.

                            I would also try blocking off the sides of the tank with news paper. What this will do is cut back on the stress from being in a new home. Although your other pets are not bothering it, it can lead to stress. Over time you can slowly remove the covering away.

                            You do need to feed these guys daily, most people dont realize because 1 they dont ask how much, and two they dont do that amount of research, which I am not calling you a bad beardie parent, I did the same thing with my first beardie almost 12 years ago. These guys eat 50+ small crickets a day, no larger then the distance inbetween their eyes. It is done over the course of 2-3 feedings a day. This is why you hear people saying beardies eat you out of house and home. Over time you cut back the amount but for the first 4 months they are eating 50+ a day.At 5 months it cuts back to about 36-40 a day, and after 7 months cut back again, so on and so forth.

                            The UV bulb you have is good BUT your beardie needs to get within 10-12" of the actual UV. If within the 10-12" of the 10.0 your beardie can actually get sun burns and eye issues from over exposure.

                            Was your thermometer digital or stickon/dial?
                            ok thanks i had no idea guess she will get filled up tomorow, shes only 3 grams, how many crix a day do u thinke she could eat? and finally the guy i got her from said she should stay small because she was the runt, now i am thinking about breeding her obviously i will do more research but in the future do you think she will reach appropriate size for breeding?
                            Crested Geckos 1.1.2.2
                            0.1 hamster
                            1.2 pekingnese,bulldog, and Doberman Pinscher
                            0.1 Green checked conure 2.0 cats 0.1 Tangerine x blood bearded dragon 1.0 holland lop bunny

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                            • #15
                              There's not much to add, most of what has been posted is great advice. Be sure to gutload your crickets and dust them. Kale is a good green to alternate into feedings. Steer away from fruits, use only as an occassional treat. You can take an orange slice, remove the seeds, peel the slice (sounds weird, I know) and what you'll find are tiny little "tubes" inside filled with, well, orange juice I guess. They LOVE these in my experience, and it definitely helps with hydration. But don't give a beardie too much, especially a baby. I would feed 2 adults at a time and not even use 1/2 a slice. Just be sure not to give them the "skin" on the outside of the slice. Make sure to provide a hide, not that I've ever seen a beardie use one, but hides reduce stress. In my experience, the belly is a good indicator of stress. If its white, they're cool. If you can see a fine-line dark stripe pattern, its stressed. Handling it before its comfortable with its new surroundings can also stress it out.
                              There are some behavioral quirks to note. Beardies do bob their heads up and down, this is normal. I've never seen a baby do it it though, mostly adult males. Arm waving is also normal. Violently convulsing on the ground with its front legs splayed to the side for 5-15 seconds is what you dont want to see in a baby. This is a sign of a deficiency of calcium (I believe its calcium, its been a few years.) You may want to find a good reptile vet in your area and bring the little guy in if the head on the ground thing continues after you make the temp gradient and hydration changes.
                              1.0.0 crested - Cuervo

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