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Thread: A little help for my friend

  1. #11
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    Don't use the ceramic heater (CHE = ceramic heat emitter) with that dome fixture - it will get too hot. If you use the CHE, get a wire holder for it. Otherwise you can use that holder and just use a regular bulb-type light, with or without UVB. Some people say UVB is not necessary, some say they believe it is helpful; I use UVB bulbs because my geckos are in a rather dark corner of my room and I think it's beneficial, and at the very least, won't hurt. If your geckos get ambient light during the day (not direct sunlight), they are probably fine without UVB.

    You don't need to feed crickets, or give extra supplements. The Repashy is a complete diet, and they shouldn't need anything else. The dusted crickets or roaches, or whatever, are more of a hunting-type enrichment activity for them than something needed in their diet.
    Eileen
    TAD (Tiny Ancient Dinosaur) - Yellow flame dash pinstripe crestie 1.0.0
    Hygge, aka TBD (Tiny Badass Dragon) - Brown reticulated gargoyle 0.0.1
    Rody Jane - Cattledog/stinkwad mix 0.1.0
    Dixie Moonpie - Rattledog 0.1.0
    Ancient barn cats - 3.0.0

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    smeagol (10-31-2017)

  3. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAD View Post
    Don't use the ceramic heater (CHE = ceramic heat emitter) with that dome fixture - it will get too hot. If you use the CHE, get a wire holder for it. Otherwise you can use that holder and just use a regular bulb-type light, with or without UVB. Some people say UVB is not necessary, some say they believe it is helpful; I use UVB bulbs because my geckos are in a rather dark corner of my room and I think it's beneficial, and at the very least, won't hurt. If your geckos get ambient light during the day (not direct sunlight), they are probably fine without UVB.

    You don't need to feed crickets, or give extra supplements. The Repashy is a complete diet, and they shouldn't need anything else. The dusted crickets or roaches, or whatever, are more of a hunting-type enrichment activity for them than something needed in their diet.
    A wire holder, like this one?

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-2-...0416/100147177

    I can remove the dome of my fixture easily, if it is only the dome the issu. But I think I gonna try only a regular bulb to see if it raise the temps enough. It gets a bit of ambient light, opposite side to bay window, but sun not hitting the tank directly. THanks for the crickets info, Will see if it eat his repashy in the bowl, it uses to be in a zootherapy (been told by previous owner) so it might already be spoiled by hand feeding

  4. #13
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    Eileen
    TAD (Tiny Ancient Dinosaur) - Yellow flame dash pinstripe crestie 1.0.0
    Hygge, aka TBD (Tiny Badass Dragon) - Brown reticulated gargoyle 0.0.1
    Rody Jane - Cattledog/stinkwad mix 0.1.0
    Dixie Moonpie - Rattledog 0.1.0
    Ancient barn cats - 3.0.0

  5. #14
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    The reason we are recommending a ceramic bulb is because you can't use a regular light at night. They need their tank to be dark at night since they are a nocturnal animal. Even the red reptile bulbs are not good for crested geckos since they can see red light. Since a ceramic bulb does not produce light you can leave it running day and night without bothering your gecko and therefore you can use it to heat the tank all the time. I regular bulb would need to be turned off at night meaning your gecko may get too cold without any heat at night.

  6. #15
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    As far as the repashy, that is fine. Mine refuses to eat cricketa and meal worms. Repashy has everything they need in it. If you want to give him some treats try baby food like fruits mine loves apples, pears, and bananas from Gerber. But they dont need it in their diet.

  7. #16
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    Ok, moved it in a 18x18x24, put a light bulb for heat, gets 71F on cold side, warmer under the light (feel by hand) humidity is going down, 55-60 it was, added some water in substrat, now 75%, a bit more after I spray. (about 90% if I make mesurement closer to substrat. The wired cage is for heat to dissipate, if I drill a few holes in it, would it be ok? and probably go for a 40w che,

  8. #17
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    Just drilled holes will not be enough. It's more that the metal of the dome itself will get too hot so holes will not fix the problem. You also need to make sure that the tank can dry out to 40-50% during the day. It can't stay at 75% all the time that will likely cause mold and could even cause repository problems in the gecko.

  9. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orchidilia View Post
    Just drilled holes will not be enough. It's more that the metal of the dome itself will get too hot so holes will not fix the problem. You also need to make sure that the tank can dry out to 40-50% during the day. It can't stay at 75% all the time that will likely cause mold and could even cause repository problems in the gecko.
    Ok, looking at temps, 72F in the morning, still 72/73F in day, but with a warmer side (using a blue day light bulb). Is that ok? if not, will buy the CHE with the wire cage. I remove the repti-bark, as I read it can cause some problem to gecko do to the fir tree bark in it. now only eco-earth as substrat, and food on a cup holder higher in the tank. 2 days and did not touch the food, wonder what to do, maybe a bit of time still and it will run for it. It might be in a shed time so that may explain, he is lighter color than when I got it.

    thanks for your input guys!!

  10. #19
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    Your temps are fine. If it gets below 65, you should use the CHE to warm it up some. 65-80 is a good range, low to mid-70's is perfect.

    You can try putting a second feeding ledge closer to the ground, and see which he prefers. Some like to eat higher up, some eat better at a lower level. Try both, and see which one he uses. You are right, if he's close to a shed, he may not eat much for a bit.

    How long have you had the gecko? It can take up to 3-4 weeks before they get comfortable enough in a new place to eat.
    Eileen
    TAD (Tiny Ancient Dinosaur) - Yellow flame dash pinstripe crestie 1.0.0
    Hygge, aka TBD (Tiny Badass Dragon) - Brown reticulated gargoyle 0.0.1
    Rody Jane - Cattledog/stinkwad mix 0.1.0
    Dixie Moonpie - Rattledog 0.1.0
    Ancient barn cats - 3.0.0

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAD View Post
    Your temps are fine. If it gets below 65, you should use the CHE to warm it up some. 65-80 is a good range, low to mid-70's is perfect.

    You can try putting a second feeding ledge closer to the ground, and see which he prefers. Some like to eat higher up, some eat better at a lower level. Try both, and see which one he uses. You are right, if he's close to a shed, he may not eat much for a bit.

    How long have you had the gecko? It can take up to 3-4 weeks before they get comfortable enough in a new place to eat.
    Good, at least temps are good, one thing settled. Will try to put a low cup in bottom, see if like it better. It might had been spoiled by previous owner by finger fed. Got it two weeks ago, was well active and jumped on my son at the pet store we got it. My son want to hand it every day, at my mother place this week-end so 2 days of quiet time for my crestie. I am the one picking him so out the cave process go smouther.

    Only eco-earth is that ok as the only substrate? Not feeding on it. His that ok, let me put the humidity a bit higher in night (75-80%) and +/- 50 in day time. Removed the repti-bark

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