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Thread: Cooling down and Gravid gecko?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lovelyanddekstest View Post
    If this is the case, then why are they good all the way up to close to hatch time? Only when they died is when they molded and went soft. In fact, the container was not as wet when they went bad as it was when they first were laid. I've never re-moistened the media. What I used also turned a darker color when wet.
    Could you possibly tell me everything about your incubation setup? Like what material, temp, container, location, etc? Possibly post a pic on a website online and give me the link? Or maybe email. With my setup i was able to get some hatchlings in about 2.5
    months from them being layed.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lovelyanddekstest View Post
    I have a good set up (well, based upon my research I did) and I also had/have time to care for them. But my grandpa died, like I said. I mean, if I could make him live longer, trust me I would have. I can't help that he died, and at that moment was the only time I didn't have enough time to care for them. And I didn't breed them, she was bred when I got her.

    Sorry to hear that. Just try not to move them. And when you do try to act like its a bowl filled to the top with water. Be very carful about any harsh movements and keep them up side up. Only time they are not as prone to being damage by movement is shortly after she has laid them. You still want to keep them up side up though. I make a soft mark with a pencil on top of the egg before i move them to the incubation container to make sure i dont turn them over at all.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sukmydeck View Post
    Could you possibly tell me everything about your incubation setup? Like what material, temp, container, location, etc? Possibly post a pic on a website online and give me the link? Or maybe email. With my setup i was able to get some hatchlings in about 2.5
    months from them being layed.
    I currently have no eggs left and I don't have my incubator set up anymore due to cooling down. However, I can tell you. Vermiculite.
    Mainly 73, but some nights it would go down to 70ish.
    Just a plastic container, can't remember what it's called.
    In top of my closet.
    I can't send picture, cause like i said, it's all taken down and old stuff thrown out.
    .1.DOG Jiggles
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sukmydeck View Post
    Sorry to hear that. Just try not to move them. And when you do try to act like its a bowl filled to the top with water. Be very carful about any harsh movements and keep them up side up. Only time they are not as prone to being damage by movement is shortly after she has laid them. You still want to keep them up side up though. I make a soft mark with a pencil on top of the egg before i move them to the incubation container to make sure i dont turn them over at all.
    Again, this is an old three ad. The eggs all died. I'm very very aware that they can't be turned. I too made an ink spot on top on egg.
    .1.DOG Jiggles
    2.1.CRESTED GECKO Dekstest,Phantom,Lovely
    .1.YBST Cloveth
    .1.MINIPIG Judy(food&belly rub is kinda apig deal)
    1..RAT CoconutRatMinneapolis
    4.4.COCKATIELS

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lovelyanddekstest View Post
    Again, this is an old three ad. The eggs all died. I'm very very aware that they can't be turned. I too made an ink spot on top on egg.
    That is very sad to hear. I think switching to pangea hatch would have helped them not mold. I havent had a bad clutch yet using it. Ive researched and found better reviews about pangea hatch vs vermiculite and other kinds.
    So besides the pin holes poked into the incubation container would you say the container was air tight? How many and what size holes did you have? Needle size or bigger? I used a thumb tac. You would want to have a nice air tight container with a few holes on the top or side for slight ventilation so it holds moisture just not to much moisture. With about 1.5 - 2 inch base of pangea hatch

    Also i keep 1 temp probe inside and 1 outside of the container. The outside will change faster and before the inside will so you can act accordingly before any significant temp changes happen to the inside. Id keep them at 72-75. I wouldnt go down to 70. Yes ive heard colder temp keeps them in the eggs longer which makes the hatchlings a bit stronger. But that also means more time for something to go wrong if your not super high maintenance about it.

    I know this was in the past but i just wana post info to help anyone who might be having the same problems or need some tips. Its been very easy and simple for me to get hatchlings and this is my females first time breeding. So if your eggs are going bad more than once then something needs to change in the incubation setup.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sukmydeck View Post
    That is very sad to hear. I think switching to pangea hatch would have helped them not mold. I havent had a bad clutch yet using it. Ive researched and found better reviews about pangea hatch vs vermiculite and other kinds.
    So besides the pin holes poked into the incubation container would you say the container was air tight? How many and what size holes did you have? Needle size or bigger? I used a thumb tac. You would want to have a nice air tight container with a few holes on the top or side for slight ventilation so it holds moisture just not to much moisture. With about 1.5 - 2 inch base of pangea hatch

    Also i keep 1 temp probe inside and 1 outside of the container. The outside will change faster and before the inside will so you can act accordingly before any significant temp changes happen to the inside. Id keep them at 72-75. I wouldnt go down to 70. Yes ive heard colder temp keeps them in the eggs longer which makes the hatchlings a bit stronger. But that also means more time for something to go wrong if your not super high maintenance about it.

    I know this was in the past but i just wana post info to help anyone who might be having the same problems or need some tips. Its been very easy and simple for me to get hatchlings and this is my females first time breeding. So if your eggs are going bad more than once then something needs to change in the incubation setup.
    Thank you. Most eggs were bad when they were laid. Very few (like 3) were good when laid. One made it to full term. I cut the egg open and it had all little toes, crests, eyes, tail... Full term. It was so sad.
    .1.DOG Jiggles
    2.1.CRESTED GECKO Dekstest,Phantom,Lovely
    .1.YBST Cloveth
    .1.MINIPIG Judy(food&belly rub is kinda apig deal)
    1..RAT CoconutRatMinneapolis
    4.4.COCKATIELS

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lovelyanddekstest View Post
    Thank you. Most eggs were bad when they were laid. Very few (like 3) were good when laid. One made it to full term. I cut the egg open and it had all little toes, crests, eyes, tail... Full term. It was so sad.
    I dont see how they could be bad when laid unless you didnt get to them in time. That hard to here sitting here looking at my babys imagining how that would have been. I guess good thing you got your female cooled and not laying. I would stay away from breeding i after going through so many problems.

  8. #28
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    A tip for all crested gecko owners. Use distilled water from walgreens or walmart or something when spraying/ moistening your gecko or eggs. It does not leave water spots. For water in a drinking dish i would use a high PH level water like essentia, you can get this at jewel.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sukmydeck View Post
    I dont see how they could be bad when laid unless you didnt get to them in time. That hard to here sitting here looking at my babys imagining how that would have been. I guess good thing you got your female cooled and not laying. I would stay away from breeding i after going through so many problems.
    It is not uncommon for girls to have issues their first season, though some can do wonderfully. Eggs can be "bad" when laid either if they are not fertile or have calcification problems. Kat had many threads last season over this and from what I recall of the troubleshooting with pics, her incubation techniques looked good.

    While I agree that Pangea Hatch or other types of calcined clay (SuperHatch, aquatic pond soil) is my preferred substrate in that you can visually tell when it is too dry/wet, using this substrate will not prevent eggs from molding if they are bad. In infertile eggs or ones that fail (not due to environmental factors), the innate antimicrobial system of fertile eggs also fails, which can result in mold in the same situation where a viable egg would not. I have had bad eggs mold pretty thoroughly on this substrate (as I incubate every egg even if it looks infertile from the start), and had wonderful, healthy hatchlings emerge from beautiful eggs as well.

    ETA: For clarification, I had eggs from a first-time girl and from previously proven incubating in the same container/substrate this past season. First time girl had a bad year with sporadic calcification issues and some fertiles that failed by 30 days or so. Most of those ended up molding over time (I don't toss until I am sure the egg is toast, so often I let them stay till mold appears as one sign), but the nearby healthy/proven dam eggs did fine and had a great hatch rate despite being in the same environment.
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