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Thread: "Lizard" the Leopard Gecko

  1. #1
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    Default "Lizard" the Leopard Gecko

    Just a few more pics of Lizard. Do you think he's overweight? This was discussed in a previous thread but i feel the way he was laying like a blob in those pics made him appear chunkier. I'm not terribly concerned, however I have cut back on mealworms focusing mainly on crickets and I am planning on trying him out on calciworms. What about superworms? Fatty like mealworms? I don't have access to dubia roaches at this time. Of course, as always gutloaded and dusted.




    1.0 leopard gecko 0.1 corn snake
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    He looks fine. Does he have bubbles in his armpit areas? That is generally a sign that they are getting too "large". If he doesn't have those then he's good.
    Btw, I love him! He looks so sweet.

    1.1.0 Leopard Gecko- Gaia and Atia, 1.1.0 African Fat-tailed Geckos- Bubblegum and Draco, 1.1.1 Crested Geckos- Enya, Dimitri, and Ice, 0.0.1 Bearded Dragon- Bracken

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    Do you know his genetic back ground and his exact weight? Some leopards are suppose to be big, just monitor his weight, if you can you don't have a scale you can get one at Walmart for cheap. If he doesn't flucuate his weight and he's active he's doing great. Plus varying his diet will keep him happy. Supers are like mealies, but he would eat fewer of those compared to a tone of mealies because of the size difference. He looks happy and healthy to me!
    1.4.0 Leopard Geckos; 6.4.1.4 Crested Geckos; 0.1.0.1 Mourning Geckos; 0.1.0 Creamsicle Corn Snakes;
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    I don't know anything about his genetics. We bought him from Petsmart when he was about 1.5 yrs old. Nov 14 he weighed 76 grams. I haven't weighed him yet this month but he's been staying there.

    I asked about supers because the only place I can find that sells calciworms combines them with supers (two separate containers but sold together). I'd hate to buy them and not use them. The only other feeders sold nearby that I can find are waxworms which I know are very fatty.
    1.0 leopard gecko 0.1 corn snake
    6.11 c.clypeatus 1.0 c.compressus
    iherp

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    Quote Originally Posted by CallaLily View Post
    I don't know anything about his genetics. We bought him from Petsmart when he was about 1.5 yrs old. Nov 14 he weighed 76 grams. I haven't weighed him yet this month but he's been staying there.

    I asked about supers because the only place I can find that sells calciworms combines them with supers (two separate containers but sold together). I'd hate to buy them and not use them. The only other feeders sold nearby that I can find are waxworms which I know are very fatty.
    Try Silkworms if you can get them. They are hard to keep alive unless you keep them in the fridge or have Silkworm chow for them though. I only buy maybe 5 at a time so that I can feed them off within a day or two. They are great because they are soft-bodied and are much healthier than Supers or Mealies.
    Crickets are probably the best feeder if you can't get roaches as they are the least fatty I believe.. as long as they are gut loaded and dusted properly you have a perfect feeder right there.

    1.1.0 Leopard Gecko- Gaia and Atia, 1.1.0 African Fat-tailed Geckos- Bubblegum and Draco, 1.1.1 Crested Geckos- Enya, Dimitri, and Ice, 0.0.1 Bearded Dragon- Bracken

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    I think your Leo looks perfectly fine and healthy.

    I've actually been asking this same question on a local forum as my female has broken the 90g mark, has bubbles behind and in front of both arms, and what appears to be a little pot belly. However, she is still very active and gets around easily. I have her on a diet of primarily crickets with kingworms thrown in for variety, and she doesn't even eat very much...between 1 and 5 prey items every two days.

    Several individuals, including some well-known breeders, responded that in their opinion, she looks perfectly normal. If I was concerned, being that she's an adult, I could either reduce the number of prey items offered, or only feed her every 3 days (instead of 2). As mine doesn't eat very much at each feeding as it is, I'll be reducing her feeding days to every 3rd. The variety of offering crickets and kingworms is good, and the fact that I don't offer fatty items or items known for bulking up reptiles (waxworms, butterworms, superworms, hornworms) is great. They also suggested to continue exercising her as I do daily by letting her run around on the floor or my bed to help potentially burn off some of the extra fat. Other things to try are including levels or climbable decor items in her enclosure (but not too high in case she falls).

    So...I will pass along their advice to you. While yours looks quite a bit smaller than mine, if you do want to help manage his weight a bit or keep it from escalating, these are some great things to try.

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    Lizard really only eats 2x a week (once every 3-4 days). 6-7 crickets at time or (if I let him) 10-12 mealworms. But like I said I've cut the mealworms back so in the last 2.5 weeks he's only had 2 mealworms with crickets filling in the rest. So even if he's not overweight, he was definitely fed too much fatty foods before. I didn't realize mealies were that unhealthy. . (Shame on me, I know)
    1.0 leopard gecko 0.1 corn snake
    6.11 c.clypeatus 1.0 c.compressus
    iherp

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    The big problem with mealworms is just that they don't have a lot of meat - they're mostly just shell/chitin.
    That's why I switched to kingworms when my geckos were old enough. Gutloaded, they are very filling and nutritious.
    When it comes to fattiness, you can't just look at the fat content of the feeder item. You also have to look at their nutritional value. For example - hornworms are often recommended for bulking up underweight reptiles. They have a higher fat content, but also a high nutrition content and they're excellent for hydration. While I wouldn't feed them as a staple, there's nothing wrong with feeding them as an addition to other staple items.
    Kings and supers rank about the same when it comes to fat/nutrition content. While I don't think they should ever be fed as a sole feeder either, they are good for variety, and most reptiles need variety to have a healthy diet.

    This site is excellent for providing the nutritional breakdown of the most common feeder prey items. I would give it a read when you have time, and it will help you in making a decision as to what to feed your gecko.

    http://bamboozoo.weebly.com/the-feeders.html

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    Thanks for the link! Crickets are definitely my staple. I just want to add a little variety for him so that's where the calciworms and superworms come in. I always thought kingworms were the same thing as supers? I'll see if I can find silkworms too (but so far I haven't seen them live).
    1.0 leopard gecko 0.1 corn snake
    6.11 c.clypeatus 1.0 c.compressus
    iherp

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    Not a problem.

    Kingworms are giant mealworms, but both Kingworms and Superworms are different species of darkling beetles (Tenebrio molitor and Zophobas morio) which means they are similar but still different.
    Kingworms are mealworms that have had their naturally-occurring hormone levels maintained so as to prevent them from pupating, which allows them to grow much larger. I have found with some of my reptiles that those who previously liked mealworms started rejecting them once exposed to kingworms - apparently size does matter.

    Do try different things to see what your Leo will take to, as preferences vary among geckos. I would suggest doing it in small numbers though until you know for sure your gecko will eat the item with regularity. For mine, for example, I found they both like butterworms, kingworms, and crickets, but neither of them will touch silkworms or hornworms (have both tried them and subsequently rejected them) and neither will even entertain the idea of superworms or calciworms.

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