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Thread: Beardie brumation Question

  1. #31
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    Bad news...
    I put my superworm container in the cool side of the box yesterday, this morning almost all of them are dead. I'm like WT* so I took the digital thermometer from the crested cage and put it in the cool side. Turns out that it was 98 over there. Bad news alright. Those alcohol thermometers don't work apparently. That would explain why she wants out all the time. Now I feel bad. Cutting heat and I've got a fan to install for circulation which will also keep it cooler. I took her out for now and measuring the hot side temps with the digital to check them. I'd love to get her off the ground, problem is that the cage weighs about 115 lbs. I'm converting another box into an outdoor storage container for the roaches, that way I don't have to worry about escapes. I've found a handful or so of the male lateralis in the house, and found some hissers at the begining. Vasoline put an end to that though. I bathed her the other day, gave the syringe of water and reptiaid. Will continue doing that for a little while to make sure she is hydrated. Jimmy ended up putting pesticides on the garden, he says he hates them and he normally doesn't use them. So now I can't get grasshoppers if any are still out, it's been so cold. I'll continue with the collard greens. She ate a few and scattered the rest over the cage last time. She's had a 13 hour cycle I think, I'll have to check the timer. Thanks everyone

  2. #32
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    oh, and what does too much heat do to them? i know it would increase dehydration, what else?

  3. #33
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    I'm glad to hear she is okay. I would try using a 50-60 watt bulb and go from there. Those type of cages hold heat really well which is good, but don't cool off easily. You can put some vents in the back, and it should be fine. Too high of temps causes all kinds of problems. Not only does it dehydrate dragons, but it can cause runny stools which dehydrate dragons even more. Their metabolism is sped up to the point to where they can't digest food properly. Low fertility, males not wanting to breed, and poor appetite are also problems with high heat. Dragons that are raised outdoors during hot months will eat and be active in the early mornings and late afternoons, and hide the rest of the time. In the springtime when the temps are in the high 70's they are pretty active all day long, and breed constantly. When it is hot, they don't want to breed, lay eggs or eat at all. The dragons main purpose is to conserve as much water as they can. These guys will go for months without water outside and look great. When they are indoors under consistently high temps for 12-14 hours a day, it dehydrates them really fast. I don't think that it is necessarly good for them to do this day after day. For the last two years, I have been peaking the temps from about 11-2 o'clock, and cooling the temps down from there with good sucess. All of my dragons do much better, and require a lot less watering. Good luck with her, let me know how it goes. Josh

  4. #34
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    The box I made the cage from is made to hold out heat extremely well. It is used to house specialized refrigereators. It has 1/4 inch foam on all sides, with fiberglass on both sides. My mistake was the thermometers. I've got the fan to put in for circulation and would bring temps down.

    I'm not interested in breeding, but I don't want the other problems. She hasn't been eating to have anything to digest. Oh, I just read where you said eat at all. I don't know how to peak the heat like that. I've got my basking and uv light on one timer. I never meant to cook her like that and I'm glad that my superworms died so I could find out. On the other hand, it is wasted money like all those crickets that died on me.

  5. #35
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    Temps are down. My repti glo 8.0 burnt out. I'm getting ticked off about this stuff. Got to drive an hour to go figure out what to do about uv. She's still not eating, but under the tile hide on the left.

  6. #36
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    A suggestion I got on the uromastyx forum I belong to is to purchase a dimmer switch from home depot or another hardware place. You can plug your heat lamp into the dimmer switch, then into the wall, and that way you can dial the heat source up or down depending on your temps without having to switch out bulbs. Might save you some hassle in the future. Hope she gets better soon!
    Say what you will about the sweet miracle of unquestioning faith, I consider a capacity for it terrifying and absolutely vile!
    ~Kurt Vonnegut

  7. #37
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    Thanks. Is this safe with the mercury vapor bulbs? That is what I was using for my heat source with the uv rays. I've got to buy some uv for her pronto

  8. #38
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    She is back to eating. She chomped down on my thumb trying to eat it. Teach me to feed by hand. At least it didn't really hurt, but just felt weird.

  9. #39
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    The mercury vapor bulbs may be too high of wattage for your cage. I don't think that they go any lower than 100 watt, but I could be wrong. I would just use a regular spot light for heat, and a fluorescent for uv.The dimmer is a great idea. What I use is a switch that turns the heat lights off when it gets too hot, and a fan that constantly blows hot air outside. Right now the temps are getting down to the 60's at night in the dragon room. The ambient temps get to about 80 degrees or so in the middle of the day, and then start to drop, even with the heat lights consistantly on. It's been pretty cold outside. Josh

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