I'll definitely get some more substrate in there and keep it and the Avic's more damp from now on. I think i'll try offering food items directly placed on it's webbing for a bit so it doesn't have to expend energy hunting.
I don't trust any piece of electronic equipment 100%, but I have little choice in my situation. I have my geckos heat tape being controlled by the same thermostat, just a couple degrees cooler on a different channel.
-Lee
One thing I have seen come up a few times recently (not here but elsewhere) is about water. That is something I did not address in the original caresheet, so here we go.
First off, T's are going to need some sort of access to liquid water. They do not get enough to survive long term on their diet alone.
A small open water dish is perfect as long as the T can get out and crickets (if used) can as well. No sponges, these just grow mold and bacteria and the T cannot efficiently get water out of it. Make sure it's not to deep as T's are bad swimmers (with a notable exception of Hysterocrates gigas, a swamp dweller from Africa that is actually a great swimmer and will stay for a long time underwater and will take fish).
For slings the easiest way to water is misting the sides of the tank as they will be able to suck up as much as they need this way. At around 2" a bottle cap makes a suitable water dish.
Don't be surprised if the T decides to bury or web up the water dish on a daily basis. Some do it some don't. Strange buggers.
They can go for the most part a relatively long time without water if need be (species dependent, obviously desert dwellers will be better at this). They are pretty efficient about its use as the exoskeleton is mostly impermeable and they do not breathe in anyway we would think of it (they have a very passive respiratory system). I however would err on the side of caution and have it readily available.
Tiger,
What's your opinion on usage of RO/DI for T's?
I've read on a forum I was skimming through to stay away from it. Though there was no hard evidence explaining why. I have a reef tank and use it exclusively for my top-off water as well as for making fresh saltwater for waterchanges. Since I make it in abundance, I also use it for my gecko's for both watering and preparing CGD, for my roaches, snakes, misting the geckos,snakes, and T's and I even use it for my drinking water. Is there reason to believe there'd be ill effects to my T's?
-Lee
In all honesty, I don't think it really matters. I use tap water for everything I have and have had no ill effects besides having to get water stains off sides every so often. That's a little annoying.
For drinking, I would be more worried about you drinking the RO/DI water as the fluoride in the water really is good for your teeth. For the rest of them, I've heard arguments for and against and no hard evidence for either team. If I remember right the large breeders that have chimed in have used tap because it's more easily available.
-Lee
Some thoughts on a few common species for different experience levels. As I've said before you can keep any T you want with the proper respect....kinda. Take into account what you are willing to deal with and what you are going to deal with. The spiders for advanced keepers I'm going to list are fast and/or have a bite that can put you in a whole world of pain, not to mention other systemic affects.
On that happy note, here we go!
Beginners:
Grammostola rosea: Cheap, easy to get, bulletproof care wise. The one issue is that it is referred to (lovingly) as a pet rock in the hobby. There are a few color forms (likely different species but certainly localities, one is rather dull and brownish the other truly bright pink in places and quite pretty. Two things to note: for every 100 easy going tractable Rosies or so there is a psychotic one that can be extremely defensive about anything, the other is that they seem to have the seasons of their homeland (the Atacama Desert in Chile) and so go on long hunger strikes for no apparent reason other than a slight flux in temperature. This will resolve itself but it may take a while (2 years is the longest I've heard)
G. pulchra: Big, velvety black, friendly as they come, and beautiful. Good display and great for beginners. The downside? It takes ~8 YEARS to reach adulthood! That's freaking slow! They are also not fast breeders so spiderlings are a little expensive and adults are VERY expensive due to the time it takes to grow own up.
Brachypelma smithi: A classic. If you've seen a tarantula in the movies it's likely this species. Black with orange banding. This is a mexican species and is also a slow grower but quite attractive. In general Brachypelma's are a touch more skittish and likely to "hair" the owner than Grammostolas but not enough to be of real concern.
Avicularia avicularia: Arboreal for beginners. And a true arboreal! They don't like to be on a non-vertical surface. These tend to be delicate so you might want to start with an adult rather than a sling. These will grow much faster than the others mentioned above, but also have a shorter life span.
Intermediate:
Acanthoscurria geniculata: Large, attractive coloration and always hungry. Very hungry. More bitey than other's listed above and more of a hair kicker. Worth it though.
Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens: Arguably the most attractive T out there. Stunning colors. Likes it dry, as it comes from a harsh desert environment in Venezuela. Semi arboreal and a heavy webber, and decor will be covered in short order. Very skittish though likely to bite or kick. This is sometimes considered a bridge between beginner and intermediate
Nhandu chromatus: Great colors, lots of attitude. Not much else to say except they are a favorite of mine. The rest of the genus is not quite as exciting though.
Pteronichilus murinus: The OBT or Orange bitey thing. I hesitate to call it intermediate as it is fast angry and has a nasty bite. But so do the ones in the next group. These are cheap as they are actually easy to breed and they are readily available most of the time. A good intro to old world T's but be careful and examine other options if really interested.
Advanced:
Theraphosa blondi/stirmi/etc (species revised and I haven't gotten it straightened out yet, all very similar): Big as they come. I mean BIG. The bite is bad just from a mechanical damage standpoint (2" fangs anyone?) and are supposed to hurt. Also for those sensitive to urticating hairs these are supposed to be the worst of all the species in captivity. Add on relatively demanding care requirements and that they are often wild-caught and we will put them up here.
Poecilitheria sp.: Beautiful T's from India. ARboreal in nature, and a beautiful cryptic coloration. Except for P. metallica, just google it to find out why it's common name is Gooty Ornamental Sapphire. They are fast as all get out and a bite will leave you in agony and possibly in the hospital.
Haplopelma lividum: An infamous pet hole. Rarely seen but a beautiful blue sheen on the legs when it does come out. A bite has been compared to slamming your hand in a car door.
"Whistling spiders": This is a common term for T's from Australia. They will stridulate (hiss) at you when upset. A bite will leave you throwing up for a few days and in pain from the bite. Plus they are from Australia. Even koalas are mean little #$%@ers when you get to know them. What do you think the spiders there are like?
This is VERY general, nowhere near exhaustive but covers some species commonly seen. If you have questions about others please post in the thread or PM me. I will be happy to give what I know.
Looks like my E. Cyanognathus has been in pre-molt all along. I made the necessary changes to it's enclosure ie, deeper substrate, higher humidity but it still didn't accept food and was pretty lethargic in any movement if at all. Found it on it's back this morning doing it's thing!!
I'll give it a week and I bet it'll be starving. Hasn't eaten in 3 1/2 weeks.
-Lee
After a molt it will certainly be starving. Make sure it's nice and hardened up first though. You might even give it a few smaller prey items over a period of short intervals to get it back up to weight.
Hey Tiger, great thread you have here. I would add pink zebra beauty, eupalaestrus campestratus to your list of beginner T's. They are very easy.
Do you know anything about Wolf spiders, not T's but still. I just "adopted" one to find her holding an egg sack this morning. I posted on Arachnoboards, but so far no responses. Thanks.
The Zoo: Cresties: Way too many!! Beagles: 1.1 Cats: 1.4 Russian tortoise 0.1 Snakes: 6.10 Tarantulas: 0.3.2 Birds: 2.4
-Lee
Thanks! I'm having fun with it.Originally Posted by Kimantha333
That's one species I haven't kept, they seem to be a little hard to find! I've heard wonderful things about them though. The list I could have gone for a long time on, so it's mostly stuff that is very easy to find or are personal favorites (like the Pulchra)
I don't know a whole lot about true spiders from the hobby perspective, and not as much as I would like from a natural history perspective period, I'm afraid. Arachnoboards would be the place to find out more. It's cool that you have a sac though! Did the previous owner mention pairing her up or is she WC or HC (house caught). I would just leave her alone and let her tend to her business myself, but that's me.
Tiger,
What care info can you give on Coremiocnemis brachyramosa? I just got a sling this week and can't find a whole lot through my searching. Thanks
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