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Thread: albino corn snake for adoption

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2006


    Quote Originally Posted by GoGo View Post
    plus, what about when you go home? It could escape or do something else that would be bad with you not watching.
    Snakes do not need to be supervised 24/7.

    A cage with secure cage clips will keep him in. If he's going to escape out of that, it won't matter if she goes home for the night. My snake lives at home with me, and if I worked in a school with her, I'd be spending more time in the same room with her than I do with her living at home.
    A righteous man does not need a law, and an unrighteous man cannot keep one.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007


    "with secure clips". Yeah I just heard the same thing on another reptile forum I go on. And whadda you know, about 8 people spout stories of how with secure clips their snakes(like 3 of them corns) managed to get out. And another story fo a tank with clips, weights, lamps, stones, and books on top, and their snake escapes constantly.

    Edit: Also on the stress front, A few times ive seen snakes die and continuously regurgitate their food in a new environment. One at my school(which is why i was worried) was handled 3 times, just to take a quick look over it and make sure nothing was wrong. 2 weeks later it was dead even when it hadnt been handled again.
    Over 35 animals owned, scaled, furry and just plain crazy.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Palmyra, WI


    For a snake to die in 2 weeks from a couple handling sessions, it would pretty much need to be in fragile condition to begin with, such as a hatchling from a pet store that had a terrible start. Even hatchlings that become chronic regurgers when they had previously been healthy, generally take months to die (like in the case of placing a new hatchling with a new owner who loves it a little too much and gets it regurging). Those animals from the pet store that die in a couple weeks were sick before they ever went home and had a poor chance to begin with, if they die that soon under correct temperature conditions.

    Yes, with new hatchlings they need some time before hitting a classroom environment, but once they're over 20 grams and growing well, they can do quite well.

    An adult should be much more rugged (again, assuming he isn't sick with something), so I'd give him 2 to 3 weeks to settle in before disturbing him too much. There's no reason if he's healthy that he shouldn't be able to handle the classroom environment. I've placed several snakes in classroom settings and they have thrived, and so have the kids.

    Definitely get your hands on a good corn guide. The best two in my opinion on basic corn snake care are written by Kathy Love (either her 1st or 2nd edition) and Don Soderberg, two of the biggest names in corn snakes and both very knowledgable people.

    (The 1st edition of Kathy's book is a little cheaper and still very good for beginners, just not as current on the corn morph section.)

    As for sexing an adult, yes, the best method is by probing. When talking about tail shape and size, the male's tail past the vent stays the same width or even widens a bit for a good 15 scales whereas the female's tail begins to taper, becoming about 1/2 to 3/4 the width at the vent by 15 scales out. The tips in both are quite tapered, so that won't help you.

    Here is a link to Kathy's page showing probing which can be done in the adult:

    Here is a written version with illustration, again from Kathy's website:

    And here is an article I wrote for the TJSAC corn snake newsletter a couple years ago highlighting the various methods of sexing. In the single adult snake, you have available to you probing (best for knowing absolutely), visualization of the tail (results more accurate with skill), or scale counting (usually viewed as being fairly inaccurate).
    Connie Hurley along with the sticky toes: Cheeto, Echo, Ditto, Whisper, Flicker, Richochet, Reverb, Granite, Marble, and Alabaster

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    SE Michigan


    For a snake to die in 2 weeks from a couple handling sessions, it would pretty much need to be in fragile condition to begin with
    Agreed. I don't keep corns, but you may want to bring your new snake to the vet for a check-up along with a fecal to rule out internal parasites. Besides ensuring the health of the animal, you should probably get that fecal done if kids are handling the animals for obvious reasons.


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