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Thread: Breeding and hatchling care questions

  1. #1
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    Default Breeding and hatchling care questions

    Okay, I will apoligize in advance for all the questions that are about to follow. I am just wanting to get everything perfectly ready when I start to breed.

    Breeding:
    1. Are there any special conditions that there should be before I breed? I already know that the female and male should be about 35-40 grams.

    2. Should I seperate the two after they breed? Or can I leave them together forever? Im only going to have one breeding pair (before the eggs start to hatch) so I want them to keep breeding but not if it effects their health.

    3. I only have a 20L tank that is turned on its side. Will this be sufficient for a female and male crested?

    4. How should I set up a lay box?

    Incubation:
    1. How do I set up a incubation box?

    2. Can I just keep them at room temp?

    3. What should the humidity be in the box?


    Hatchling care:
    1. Do they need any lighting? I will put them in a room with a window but they will not be right next to it. The light will hit their enclosure though. Will this be enough light?

    2. Should I keep food and water available 24/7?

    3. Can I just get an air tight containter (like rubbermaid) and drill about 20 holes on the top and will this be enough air circulation and ventilation?

    4. What age should I move them to a bigger container and what is a very cheap container that I can keep them in for a lifetime? I dont think I can afford a bunch of 20G aquariums.

    5. This relates to the above question. Can a single or breeding pair crested live for their whole life in a 5 gallon rubbermaid container? They are pretty big

    Thank you. I appreciate any answers.
    Last edited by krnggangpe94; 07-11-2007 at 01:53 PM.

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    Can anyone help me on these questions?

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    I am not going to answer all your wuestions but, will respond to a few.
    Breeding
    1. Make sure that the female has a good calcium size calcium sacks/
    2.Most of my groups stay in the same cage all year - I use the winter temp drop to stop breeding/ egg laying for a rest period.
    4. Laybox- I like the Glad throw away tupperware things. The type that are square come 3 to a pack and have the interlocking stacking lids. I just cut out the raised interlock circle part. There are many threads and opinions on what to put in the box.

    Incubation
    Search the forums read what is there and then if you have less general questions ask.

    Hatchling care.
    Again search the forums and then if you have questions that are a bit less general ask.

    Dale
    "The dead are likely dull fellows, full of tedious complaints - 'the ground's too cold, my gravestone should be larger, why does HE get more worms than I do...'".

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    Most of these questions can be answered by doing a lot of reading on the forums here.

    To answer one in particular though, no, a pair can not live in a 5g container.
    A righteous man does not need a law, and an unrighteous man cannot keep one.

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    Okay thank you very much. I already searched so that was why I asked. Right now, here is my only question: How do ya'll breeders keep so many geckos, all at once, healthy and cheaply? Buying 30-40 20 gallon aquariums hardly seems cheap. Im just asking how do you keep cresties (hatchling to adult) in a cheap, safe, healthy enviroment?

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    Most people do not buy 30-40 20g aquariums.

    Hatchlings go into plastic kritter keepers, or similar structures. They don't hatch and automatically go into 20g tanks. That being said, one needs to have multiple cages available for adults and subadults.

    I strive for a happy and healthy environment, but not "cheap." Raising animals is never cheap. It doesn't cost that much more to feed a bunch of hatchlings (they don't eat that much ) but you do need to spend a little on all the caging and a bit of time on the care. There are some that do this for a living, and could probably better answer how to keep things low cost to return the most profit. Personally, I am in it small time and just for the fun of it. It'd be nice to at least break even when the babies start getting sold (even my oldest babies are still too young), but otherwise I just enjoy checking to see if another egg has been laid or one has hatched.

    I remember when I only had to prepare one bowl of CDG. Now I have a little tray I line all the bowls up on to carry them to all the cages like I'm a flippin waitress.
    A righteous man does not need a law, and an unrighteous man cannot keep one.

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    Cheap is not my first priority. Most of my set ups fo adult breeding groups/pairs have over $100 each in them. Look in the new contest section of the forums there is a example of a storage bin type cage.
    "The dead are likely dull fellows, full of tedious complaints - 'the ground's too cold, my gravestone should be larger, why does HE get more worms than I do...'".

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    Quote Originally Posted by IndyCrestie View Post
    I remember when I only had to prepare one bowl of CDG. Now I have a little tray I line all the bowls up on to carry them to all the cages like I'm a flippin waitress.
    Heheh I feel the same way and I don't even have that many geckos. I have Ze Gecko Servink Tray and I ask them all if they would like a red or white wine with that. :P Nobody ever leaves me a tip... unless they hate my service and consider poop a tip...

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    Lol. Well I didnt mean "cheap" but just like as low cost but still healthy as can be.

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    Best bet is to work up to it slowly. have cages ready for geckos before you get them, i made that mistake. i buy crested gecko cages from reptile depot for small groups and kritterkeepers for babies. if you have to many males ten gallons turned on the side work well.

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